Carrying on the Dream | Food, July 2011

Written by on July 1, 2011 in Food, From this Issue | July 2011 - No comments

Carrying on the Dream

La Margarita’s Lori Rangel Grubbs expands on her late husband’s vision with another restaurant opening

Food

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When servers place customer favorites such as shrimp tequila on crowded dining tables at La Margarita Restaurant, owner Lori Rangel Grubbs smiles proudly. This wildly popular dish is one of many created by her late husband, Larry Rangel.

When shrimp tequila or grouper in chipotle sauce are dished up for yet another hungry customer, Lori views this as proof that Larry’s dreams are alive and well at one of Indy’s most popular Mexican eateries.

As a registered nurse, Lori married into the restaurant business.

In 1986, she and Larry opened La Margarita at 30th Street and Georgetown Road. Five years later, they relocated to Willow Lake Plaza, near 86th Street and Township Line Road. Now the restaurant is located at 96th and Meridian streets. Lori says she always has been grateful that loyal La Margarita fans followed the restaurant through its moves.

For years, Lori and her husband worked together in the restaurant, enjoying great customers and being voted as one of the city’s top Mexican restaurants multiple times.

But in 2000, Larry was killed in an airplane crash. Longtime friends Tony and Shirley Bettenhausen and Russ Roberts also perished in the tragic accident.

“It was really hard to lose my husband and Shirley, who was my best friend, at the same time,” Lori recalls.

Not only was she devastated by the losses, Lori also was left to raise the couple’s four young children alone.

FoodPerservering
More than a few times in those first years as a widow, Lori considered giving up La Margarita.

“But that was the one part of Larry we could continue,” she says. “And I wanted to do that for my kids.”

Through the years, Lori often had to supplement her income by returning to work as a labor and delivery nurse. But no matter how difficult times were and how many candles she was burning at both ends, Lori could not bring herself to give up the restaurant. She also didn’t allow herself much time to get depressed.

“When you let yourself get down, it’s harder to get back up,” she says.

So Lori put all her energy into helping the children deal with their father’s death and securing the future of the business she and Larry loved.

In a competitive industry where few females are at the top as restaurant owners, Lori’s efforts have led to the continuing success of La Margarita. She also has earned the respect of male restaurant owners.

“For a woman in a locally owned Indianapolis restaurant, it’s hard to feel connected and taken seriously,” she says. “However, after almost 25 years, they do take me seriously now. When we open our second location in Fountain Square, it will also move us to a new level.”

That second location Lori speaks of –– 1043 Virginia Ave. next to the Heartland Film Festival headquarters –– opens this month and will include a tequila bar.

“At first, I thought, I’m 50 years old. Do I really want to do this?” Lori says with a laugh. “But then I thought, I can’t pass this up.”

She won’t go it alone though. Earlier this year, Lori remarried. Her husband, Guy Grubbs, a teacher for Indianapolis Public Schools, “has taken on quite an adventure with me and all of my kids and my restaurants,” Lori says.

Her oldest child, Jon, recently graduated from Indiana University and will take on a management role at the new La Margarita location.

“He’s going to step where his father started,” Lori says proudly.

Shrimp Tequila
This dish, one of Lori Rangel’s late husband Larry’s signature creations, is still on the menu at La Margarita.

Makes 2 servings
14 large raw shrimp, peeled
1 cup red and green pepper, julienned
3⁄4 cup sliced mushrooms
1⁄2 cup parsley
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon lemon pepper
1⁄2 cup blanco tequila
1 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper

Melt butter over medium flame; sauté peppers, mushrooms, garlic powder, lemon pepper and parsley for 2 to 3 minutes. Add shrimp and sauté until cooked. Add tequila and stir in heavy cream and salt and pepper. Stir constantly and heat to bubble. Serve with rice and homemade guacamole.

For more information, log on lamargaritaindy.com.

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