Dressing Your Body
Choose pieces that play up your best assets and downplay what you’d rather disguise
It’s no secret that clothing does so much more than just cover your body.
The right color can perk up your complexion, the right dress can give your ruler-shaped body an hourglass curve, and strategic draping and ruching can disguise a tummy you’d rather keep under wraps.
On the other hand, though, the wrong color can make you look sallow, the wrong dress can emphasize bumps and bulges, and the wrong pockets on the back of your pants can widen your rear end.
“It’s about looking in the mirror and being honest and accepting,” says Gregg Andrews, a fashion director for Nordstrom.
That means choosing the right pieces for what you want to highlight and what you’d rather de-emphasize.
The next time you go to the mall, keep these tips in mind.
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Downplay a large chest:
There are times when showcasing an ample chest just isn’t appropriate.
In those cases, choose a top that softly drapes as opposed to tightly hugs, Andrews says. A wrap or surplice top also can do the trick.
“Avoid something like a high, round neck,” he says. “That creates this ‘plateau’ of a bust. Avoid anything low-cut because you want to avoid spillage.”
It might seem obvious, but as with pants, you want to wear the top that fits best.
“I see many large-chested women wearing button-down blouses that pull and gape across the front because their chest is simply too large for the shirt,” Robyn Haagsma of about STYLE says. This draws even more attention to the chest.
Another no-no is wearing a necklace that doesn’t fall flat against the chest and instead bounces back and forth.
Downplay a large rear end:
Wear the pants that fit you the best –– not necessarily the pair with the smaller size on the tag.
“I find that many women are set on buying up to a certain size,” Haagsma says. “For example, even if a size 12 doesn’t fit extremely well, women tend to dismiss the idea of buying a size 14 because it’s tough to mentally accept.
“When you wear pants that are too snug, the results can be disastrous and can make a large rear end look much larger.”
In addition to buying the size that fits you best, take a look at the size and placement of the back pockets.
“If they are too small in proportion to the size of her backside, they’ll make it look larger,” Andrews says. “If not placed correctly, they will make the hips look larger.”
A pair of pants with a high rise also can enlarge the rear, as can clingy fabrics.
Dresses and skirts work well to “soften” the look of a large backside, Andrews says.
And, as with any part of the body that you want to disguise, wear darker colors in your pants and jeans.
“Light colors and patterns tend to draw attention to a rear end,” Haagsma says.
Draw attention to your neck or collarbone:
To show off a great collarbone, a V-neck that hits the middle of the breastbone will be the most flattering, Andrews says. It both elongates the neck and takes a few pounds off the face.
Just don’t go too low or the focus will most likely shift away from the neckline to, ahem, another area.
Consider a statement necklace or even a turtleneck. Haagsma says that even though it may sound counterintuitive, a turtleneck, especially one with side ruching, can showcase a long neck.
Give a small chest a boost:
Look for tops that have seaming around the bust or darts, both of which can define the bust and give it shape, similar to a bra, Andrews says.
A lower-cut top also can accentuate the chest –– just don’t go too low.
“They don’t have to bear cleavage, but they bring the eye toward the bust,” he says.
Haagsma recommends investing in shapewear to draw in the waist and give the hip/rear end area a smooth shape.
“Minimizing these areas tends to make a bustline appear larger,” she says.
Certain details on tops also can boost the bust. Choose ruffles, a V-neck, a draped neckline or horizontal stripes.
And remember certain rules of color. Andrews points out that dark colors absorb light and make things look smaller, whereas light colors reflect light and make objects look bigger.
Play up or create a waist:
To do so, accentuate the smallest part of your torso. For some, it’s the waist, and for others, it might be right under the bust, Andrews says.
Belts not only function as an accessory, they’re also perfect for emphasizing the waist. Haagsma likes using a medium- to large-width belt around your top or non-bulky sweater.
“This pairing can take an outfit from good to great,” she says. “It adds an extra element of style and calls attention to the waistline.”
If you are using a belt, use one that blends in to whatever color you’re belting, Andrews says. That way, “you’re not creating this strong horizontal line across your body.”
Create the illusion of longer legs:
Start with high heels, which, Andrews and Haagsma say, will elongate the leg. Heels in the same tone as your skin are your best bet, as they make the leg look like it extends all the way down to the end of your toes.
“It’s a tremendous way to lengthen the leg,” Andrews says.
Stay away from pants that taper at the ankle (like skinny jeans), which accentuate the width of the hips and cut off the leg line, Andrews says. He likes a simple straight-leg pant.
Haagsma says pants with a slight flare at the bottom also can add length.
Draw attention away from a large midsection:
Haagsma recommends shapewear to smooth and draw in the tummy area.
“Additionally, paying attention to where the waistband of your pants or skirt ‘falls’ within your midsection is extremely important,” she says.
“Ideally, you want it to lie right in the middle of your midsection.
“Having a waistband that falls higher or lower can actually accentuate one’s midsection.”
Consider wearing prints or using diagonal draping and pleating to your advantage, Andrews says.
“Think about creating that long line using color,” he says. “Don’t cut yourself in half with color, like a black skirt and white blouse. Wear gray or a jewel tone. The higher the contrast, the more you’re breaking that visual line.”
You may be tempted to hide yourself in oversized clothes. This has the opposite effect than what you probably intended.
“When you wear these shapeless garments, you just start looking bigger,” Andrews says. “You want to create some shape, no matter your size.”
