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January 2001


The Updated Trousseau—
Lingerie for every bride
by Alicia Dean Carlson

Modern bridal customs generally exclude the "trousseau" altogether. The thousands of pages updated monthly in periodicals dedicated to educating future brides steer clear of the enigma. Merriam-Webster defines the little-used term as "the personal outfit of a bride," while Random House is a bit more inclusive, defining it as "an outfit of clothing, household linen, etc., for a bride."

It's Random House's "etc." and the overall obscurity of what constitutes a modern trousseau that make the old-fashioned tradition brim with fresh possibilities.

Brides of the new century have established jobs, homes and even families, and stocking up on goods for a complete trousseau — evening and everyday dresses, undergarments and linens — would be senseless. To rejuvenate the custom and accommodate individual style, from the sophisticated, more-seasoned bride, to the fanciful, rosy-cheeked romantic, brides need a new version.

"Most often, people use the term 'trousseau' in the context of wedding night and honeymoon, but it can carry on into the marriage," says Denisa Carpentier, co-owner of 27-year-old Courtyard Cottage. With much experience catering to brides with lingerie needs, Carpentier says the trousseau of today is a less elaborate purchase than yesteryear. Perhaps a suitable getaway ensemble, a bottle of your favorite perfume and a collection of self-indulgent lingerie will suffice. Or you can stick with the mattress-cover-and-pillowcases interpretation.

Refined mystique
"Trousse," the ancient French term from which trousseau is derived, literally translates into "bundle." In keeping with tradition, the requirements for the modern version will fit nicely into one handsome weekend bag. The more sophisticated bride — dressed in smart tweed trousers paired with a charmeuse blouse or cowl-neck sweater by Michael Kors — might opt for a paisley duffel from Etro.

To fill your bag, lingerie is a must. Women going for all-out elegance can hide bare shoulders set off by a gold or reptile-print full-length gown under a regal black jacquard houndstooth robe with gold piping, by Kay Ann Studio. A Mandarin style influences cuffs and collars on Jones New York's black velvet robes with red and gold flowers embroidered on collar and cuffs.

"Silk has always been a very luxurious fabric," Carpentier says. Although it should be hand-washed and pressed or dry-cleaned, some women prefer natural fibers and the refinement of pure silk, while an ivory chemise with matching kimono wrap in a washable poly-satin by Natori can be an easy alternative. A "burnout" design — sheer chiffon cut-outs on solid satin — adorns a conservative floor-length ivory gown and robe for the woman on her second trip down the aisle, while 18-year fragrance sales specialist Claudia Hadley suggests Chanel No. 5 or Fable by Joseph Gregory to complete the sophisticated ensemble. "Women marrying a second or third time sometimes want something that doesn't scream 'bride,'" Carpentier says, though other women prefer louder intimates..

Come-hither finesse
"Women in their 30s and 40s go for what is sexy — thongs, teddies — the sexier the better," Von Maur lingerie department manager Pam Moore says. Escape from playing the role of innocent bride in Bruno Magli heels with a floral wrap top and side-tie red laminate pants by Bisou Bisou. Women who outgrew innocent breezy cotton years ago want to shed weekday, sensible undies for glamour and a jolt of risque. Tucked away in Gianfranco Ferre's boxy bag in brushed calfskin and durable nylon, undercover apparel shows off your animal instinct.

Felina, known for rich color and catering to larger busts, offers a variety of savory lingerie, including lacy bustiers with detachable garters and matching panties. Sheer black bras and panties are flourished in gray and indigo appliqued flowers, while high-cut legs and all-over burgundy blooms beg for attention. The chemise is revved up with California Dynasty's leopard-print bodice with sheer black skirt, while Victoria's Secret boasts eight savory shades of stretch lace for teddies, bras, panties and garter belts. Dab pulse points with Givenchy's Amarige or Christian Dior's Dioressence to match the mood.

Sensible spark
"Some women don't want a frilly, frothy gown because they feel they won't wear it as often," Carpentier says, but sensible doesn't mean boring. For the woman who spends paychecks on must-haves and passes on would-likes, bedtime clothing must be low maintenance but still maintain femininity and style. Leave for your adventurous honeymoon in Earl Jeans and a J. Crew sweater with a Healthy Back Bag or Dooney and Burke black leather satchel filled with the basics.

"Most brides have careers and are busy women. They want something easy to care for, something washable, and designers know that. They create things that are beautiful and practical and easy to maintain," Carpentier says, pulling a Lycra-infused micro-mesh number from a rack.

"Even though they grew up wearing boxer shorts and tee-shirts, many brides feel they would be comfortable wearing something new," maybe a discreet chemise peppered with leopard spots in blue or green, or the silk-poly fabrics of other gowns, combining a machine-washable sexy shine and irresistible softness.

"This is not your grandmother's cotton," says Victoria's Secret's Amy Francisco. "It's young, sexy, hip cotton." Soft fabrics in cool colors on camisoles and panties deliver practical appeal at the lingerie chain. For a fresh splash of fragrance, try Tommy Girl or Prescriptives' Calyx.

Romantic preference
A young romantic with sparkles in her eyes exits the party in wool slacks and matching jacket by Ann Taylor and Tod's, clutching a pink plaid weekend bag from Vivienne Westwood. "A 'fluffy' see-through robe over a slinky satin gown is the look for the wedding night," Moore says, describing the white gown of fairy tales, while Carpentier says she sells more short chemises to fanciful brides.

"Lingerie follows trends in ready-to-wear," she adds. Claire Pettibone combines a baby-doll style with "vintage" lace, washable fabrics and delicate detail to create lovely, mid-length gowns. Hand-detailed rosettes with green stems climb up a pink point d'esprit lace skirt toward the stretch-lace bodice in pink and yellow. A retro creamy lace chemise has elegant gathers at the waist of its V-shaped back, while a layer of comforting tulle next to the skin peeks out from a more decorative overlay right above the knee. Longer gowns follow the wedding dress trend with a fishtail hem in back to create a gliding affect.

Dab the wrists, neck and earlobes with Ralph Lauren's Romance or Estee Lauder's Pleasures to finish the look and breathe romanticism into the outdated trousseau.



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